Treatment: cut open vertically or diagonally and add trim
Problem addressed: too-tight jumper or unsuitable style
Ideal fabric type: any
WHAT DOES IT INVOLVE?
First, design your new opening, including the ratio of old rows to new stitches.
Cut the fabric vertically or diagonally, securing with a line of stitching if required. Pick up stitches parallel to the cut edge and knit a trim, enclosing the cut edge in the process. Repeat on the other side, including buttonholes if desired.
Thanks to Kate Davies for her excellent instructions on creating a sandwich trim for steeked knitwear, which informed this technique.
WHAT COULD IT LOOK LIKE?
- Contrasting or tonal, with the option of stripes
- Width of placket can be varied
- Different stitch patterns could be used within the button placket – think about whether the fabric will lay flat
- Consider alternatives to buttons, such as a zip or poppers
- Combine with other treatments such as insert pocket or embellish to help the revitalised garment ‘hang together’
Here are some finished projects:
HOW DO I DO IT?
Step 1: cut open
Step 2: pick up stitches through fabric
Step 3: sandwich trim
HOW DO I DESIGN IT?
To ensure your new trim lays flat, you need to pick up stitches at the correct ratio. See the step 2 video above for an example of the chart below being used.
- Practise the techniques on scrap fabric
- Check the position of your opening by sewing a marker thread and trying the garment on
- Sample your trim to try out stripes, buttonhole placement and so on
- Treat your first attempt as a sample, too – unravel and reknit if you don’t like it
- Do the button side of the opening first – you can use that to work out the positions of the buttonholes on the second side
- Use the same approach to add a new trim to any opening, such as a new neckline
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Also, please note that these instructions are in beta mode; feedback is most welcome. Email comments to email@example.com.